September 28, 2014
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
This year Paris fashion week is heavily linked to the arts and design, which makes it more interesting to attend, and again shows how important art, architecture and design have always been in fashion. It seems every year that these connections, and the influence of other creative fields, are getting stronger and stronger.
Poetic and pure. Showing in a mirrored tent, the collection by Raf Simons with these beautiful white shirts, embroidery anglaise, white cotton, and 18th century jackets – all becoming contemporary under his strong, powerful cuts and mastery.
The UNESCO building in Paris, with its amazing architecture by Nervi, Breurer and Zherfuss was the backdrop for the new Loewe collection. This was a beautiful first collection by J.W.Anderson, and it could not have had a better location – the Isamu Noguchi garden designed in 1958, with the organic sculptural seats catching the light added another element to the presentation.
There will soon be an opening of a major Sonia Delaunay exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in Paris next week, and the influence on the magic Watanabe collection was striking and so contemporary.
The sculptural seats at the Céline collection were a series of rough wooden shapes with the purity of line one sees in Brancusi, the whole backdrop to the show was an incredible construction of design.
With a sure hand, Phoebe Philo continues her journey at Céline. Tunic and pants, low shoes, all silhouettes that make a woman beautiful with functionality. And the sound of Kate Bush music on the runway was great.
“Roses and Blood “. The clothes all in the same striking red were sending a strong message, we could all perceive as we feel the world going through such a disturbing reality – a reminder to not forget we live in a privileged world.
The Austrian artist and provocateur Hermann Nitschis linked to Vienna’s Actionist movement in the 60´s and 70´s. His series, Bloodlines involves ritual and animal sacrifice to remind us of the dark sides of our human existence. His compelling theatre is often performed with his paintings – stark in its blackness.
The red labyrinth of Ruhs installation reminds that our time on earth can catch us in a bloody labyrinth but that the arts offer the hope of communication and peace when we look around us. Landing on Earth.