March 9, 2014
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
The weather is gorgeous in Paris this week – the blue sky brilliant overhead as we move from one show to another – to another – to another! In a week where there were also several major art openings that always take priority on my schedule, the line between fashion and art becomes even more difficult to see. Where many of the installations of the fashion shows clearly showed their roots in conceptual art – my question always, what is the ever present link between the two?
The dreamy, fairy tale, magical show presented by Sarah Burton in the McQueen tradition did impress the audience. But it was more than that, in this installation illuminated by moonlight and the thousand plants imported for the occasion, it seemed to transport us all to a past memory of his visions. Truly touching.
It is always about emotions, and the McQueen installation gives a moment of wonderful peace – a meditative moment – a gift in dreaming. You could dream of being in suspended in water, or high in the sky, in both cases, slowing down…
“Who am I?” “Where am I” “Where am I going?” The magnificent retrospective of video artist Bill Viola at Grand Palais opened this week around these three questions. To follow Viola’s journey through his video diaries becomes our own journey, ending with his most recent work “The Dreamers”, 2013. Here, a picture from Viola’s video, “Ascension”,2000.
Talk about emotion! Waiting for the most anticipated show, the “new day” for both Guesquière and Vuitton. The letter signed by Nicolas was so clear about his vision, and balancing innovation in the fields of legacy and authenticity. The most difficult of the tasks to achieve for a fashion designer, timelessness. This was a great moment to share with both the house and a friend.
A lesson in timelessness at Miu Miu too. As Miuccia Prada says, “no useless design”, everything in this presentation was wearable – and visually true. A beautiful installation of rough scaffolding at the Palais d’Ièna, all covered in clear plastic inside was the perfect background for these perfect windbreakers.
When it comes to any conversation on timelessness, of course Alaia comes instantly to mind. His work is without time and space,he has even created for years now a collection called “les Intemporels”, the classics of tomorrow. His show on Sunday closes Paris Fashion Week in a very emotional way, another collection to dream about, at the sound of Rossini’s “miau,miau,miau” song…