September 22, 2013
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
This season, just now, with the Spring/Summer collections,
is the 45th anniversary of attending my first fashion show.
It is a personal celebration with many great memories
and historic moments as fashion shifted from Rome
to Florence to Milano with Paris always there for every season.
And my point of reference being London where I was spending
as much time as possible and where all was happening.
To have been so close to all these changes in the field,
and to meet the creative people behind them
is a privilege I cherish and I feel that it is not even me that has lived it!
I am always ready for the new, as though I had just started.
“After Bathing at Baxter’s” was released in ’67 and the Jefferson Airplane
became for me the band that really expressed the psychedelic
freedom now happening all around me in London.
I was 20 years old and ready for all that was new.
In London in the late 60’s the biggest attraction was 91 Baker Street where
The Fool had painted the outside of the Beatle’s Apple Boutique.
It was ’67 and my first really long stay in London. From grey beautiful
conservative Milano to joyful crazy happy London. An emotional trip.
The Beatles had purchased several velvet suits designed by The Fool,
and thier line of clothing was also carried at the Apple boutique
that had collections of drawings, objects, and paintings for sale.
The Fool’s clothing became the main attraction!
The one and only Miuccia Prada delivered another surprising collection.
And I mean to emphasize the word “collect”, when I say collection.
For years on a strong and steady path Prada has been surprising,
opening a path between fashion and art.
Working with six street artists – Jeanne Detallante, Stinkfish,
Pierre Mornet, Mesa, Miles “El Mac” Gregor and Gabriel Specter –
the result was astonishing both in the clothes and the backdrop.
A grand opening of Milano Fashion Week! Our Mayor invited all the
fashion world to a party, with the support
of Condé Nast who, of course, made it all perfect.
Vittorio Grigolo, the new tenor with a voice that reminds
of Pavarotti was on stage – superb in both voice and style.
And the guitar pieces were my favorites. Just great.
Young, talented, and full of joy and positive energy,
the Stella collection was a refreshing moment,
reminding me of the enthusiasm we used to share
all together at Kenzo’s fashion shows.
Stella is star in Italy, and for sure this show was a light and
colorfully happy star in the Milanese skies during fashion week.
The magician of color. For whom the world was beautiful
and who made all of us see it with him – colorful and joyful.
From one exotic show to the next, Kenzo was color,
and flowers, and stripes, and embroideries –
almost, but never too much – always a delight.
Always a standing ovation from all of us.
Here, the doll bride from his Winter ’82 collection.
Anna Piaggi’s hats were fun – and serious – and Stephen Jones has curated
with so much love the Hat-Ology show at the Palazzo Morando
of Anna’s hats that I felt Anna had curated herself.
And Manolo was there for the opening party.
What a beautiful vision of real, real friendship and respect.
After years in the front seats. I was late. I couldn’t believe,
for the Prada show, the one I most wait for –
stuck behind a truck in traffic – and I wound up
on the steps, but it was perfect.
Sitting where I wound up reminded me of the times
as a young journalist I attended shows
and how important it was to be there
and how impressed to see the masters.
And it was the same feeling as when I started
in fashion working at “Cherie Moda”
where the seat, or standing in the back
didn’t matter – what I was watching
made for me the magic again and again – why I love fashion.