June 30, 2013
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
What is always interesting for me to see – and sometimes more interesting because I care so much about the Galleria’s, are the graphics the designer’s have chosen for the invitations. Never mind whether the visual idea is also used for backdrops, or printed on clothes, the graphics will set the mood, suggest the connections and link the artistic side with the creative process of the season’s fashions.
Sometimes the invitations are so promising and exciting, they are the reason in itself to go and see the presentation.
It was eighteen years ago when I first saw Raf Simons collection and I was so impressed by his tailoring in the new skinny men’s silhouette that I instantly became a Raf fan. And he has held my loyalty ever since. At each collection there is always a new twist and I always think this last must be his best ever. This time the twist was in the new Gagosian Gallery, next to Le Bourget airport, a show where he joined art and fashion more than ever. Surrounded by hanging Calder mobiles and two Jean Prouvé pieces… surely the new prints will soon be seen influencing other collections somewhere sometime.
Perforated dots: always a great graphics to cherish.
Here, Kris Van Assche’s invitation conducts the way to a great theme of polka dots on pants, shirts, pullovers, and even suits. The tailored sporty look collection also showed some beautiful “à la K-Way” anorak and parka light jackets.
Along with Hermes, Courrèges is, has been, and probably will always be my favorite shop in Paris, a real destination I cannot avoid.
I am attracted like a magnet…so this invitation to a special price reduction came as a ray of sunshine in yesterday’s gray rainy day.
“The Sun must have its shade….till both at once do fade”, says the poem by Thomas Campion, a XVI century English composer, poet, and physician.
The four bright yellow dice showing possible winning combinations accompanied this ingeneous invitation. And with the title the backdrop of mirrors made a wonderful sunny set for the collection. It is also very interesting to read the full poem “Follow Thy Fair Sun” – very inspiring.
It is always with wonder, surprise, and with great respect when I see a Rei Kawakubo collection. The surprise is in the continuous change, her own metamorphosis, the work growing and evolving. The real question is, “How can she”? How, after thirty years, can she still be the one and only?.…that rare artist with such a continuous flow of content and creativity that she expresses and has shared with us indirectly through her work over these years.
The comeback of Kansai Yamamoto at the Isetan pop store in Tokyo was really big news for all of us who loved his fantasy world, and remember the clothing he made for David Bowie and so much more. Here, Yamamoto’s first collections in London in 1971, as clearly memorable as his Paris shows through the mid 70’s.
He says he spent twenty years in fashion and twenty in entertainment…and now has decided to combine these two worlds. His “Super Shows” as he called them, combined music, dance and even acrobatics and it brings a smile to see his sense of play again.
I love to shop vintage on line and find rare pieces ….at reasonable prices, otherwise the fun is not there any more.
I am told this 1980 Kansai jacket with the eagle is on exhibit at the Costume Institute of the MET in New York, in the pop costume section – another good reason to visit this museum. I saw it on Etsy.com