June 23, 2013
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
When Men’s Fashion Week starts, also the polemics start again – which is
the best Men’s Fashion Week? In alphabetical order so that I do not join
the arguments, these are the cities that host the menswear shows:
Florence, London, Milano, Paris.
Each is of course great with wonderful things on offer.
Each cities’ beauty and culture and parties and events
are unique…but it really is all in the designers’ creativity.
Italy has two poles, Florence and Milano, offering different aspects of
men’s fashion. Before looking too deeply, it is interesting to think about
taking this amazing chance to be able to unite forces and join together,
putting polemics aside for the health of the fashion world that we all love.
A surprise this week: iconic, unique, acclaimed: Armani has made a very
generous offer to support Italian Fashion. He is inviting emerging Italian
designers to show in his beautiful Tadao Ando Milano venue.
Every season a new designer will be invited to show. This is a great initiative
giving more courage to young Italian designers. Unfortunately today most
of the young ones choose to work for other brands and really need to
be encouraged to believe in themselves and show what they have to say
independently. Thank you, Giorgio.
When thinking of classic tailoring for men, everybody instinctively
says “Zegna”. But the hiring of Stefano Pilati by the Ermenegildo Zegna
studio has been a real twist to the classic Zegna lines.
All the deconstructed jackets and coats are as light and elegant as classic Zegna,
adding a big plus to the couture pieces. Another great backdrop: the set ran a film
by Swedish cinéaste Johan Soderberg with the colors and patterns of
industrial machines covering the walls behind the new pieces, it was great.
At the center of fashion week excitement and expectations is always the
Prada show. Where Miuccia Prada – surprising each time – manages to put
together art, culture and fashion all mixed in one harmonious, and really
well edited collection. The set of the “Tropical Paradise” collection this time
was full of palms and sunrises; flowers and sunsets were emotional and a
great backdrop to the collection, designed to move fashion always forward.
It is the ten year Anniversary for this most popular brand, Moncler. An
amazing achievement in only ten years for a brand that went from local and
almost unknown to an acclaimed global presence thanks to the eye and
strong will of Remo Ruffini. So…Happy Anniversary Remo!
This Tropical Pinup Girl cotton print fabric from Californian textile house
Alexander Henry. Palms and hibiscus…would make a daring Hawaiian shirt.