April 15, 2012
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
Today, like most days now, more and more of what I read is from
the computer screen, even when I could be perhaps more quiet and with my
books. Here, just in front of my desk is a present from Silvia,
the Leporello unfolding book by Warja Lavater, a Swiss artist.
She was known for creating classic fairy tales as accordian art books
using images instead of words. Here the story of Don Giovanni’s amorous
conquests (all the kisses!) as they are noted down (and seen by the eye!)
of his faithful servant Leporello in Mozart’s opera. No website will
ever give the emotional feeling that paper – the touch, the smell, the
weight and the color that books can as they involve so much of the
senses. And color is such an important part of our emotions, so many
theories on the compositions of colors. Even today we do not know what
makes color, whether dark or light or psychedelic, only its beauty.
From the penetrating eye of Laveter’s wonderful art book Leporello and
its colors to the circles of Goethe’s masterwork on color theory, here a
page of his book. Goethe considered this theory his biggest achievement.
In contrast to Newton who saw color as formed from splitting white light
through a prism, Goethe considered color to be made from both dark and
light, a very Renaissance approach.
Since the beginning of the bookshop at 10 Corso Como we have carried the
Kandinsky book “Concerning the Spiritual in Art” originally written in 1911
to explain abstract painting. Kandinsky color was a spiritual
and emotional expression. His theory thought that color has its own
expressive value: warm colors create movement forward; cool colors create
movement away. Colors can be pleasing to the eye but also have a deeper
resonance with the spirit and communicate without an object or figure.
Yayoi Kusama and Marc Jacobs are working together on a new series for the
Vuitton line. It is a pleasure just to check the new opening page (right)
of the Vuitton website to see what is coming up. Kusama’s use of
psychedelic colors in her signature patterns has always been fascinating
and an exhibition here at the gallery in 2005 of her furniture and
clothes was delightful to host (left). Can’t wait to see and hopefully own at
least one piece from this new collaboration.
A series of photos of fashion in a suspended bubble were taken in Paris
in 1963 by Melvin Sokolsky while he was at Harper’s Bazaar and became a
sensation. In 1998 we made an exhibition of his work here at the
Gallery, which he attended. Mr. Sokolsky in 2010 published an archive
of his work, over 400 pages, that simply cannot be appreciated on a
French designer Pierre Stephane Dumas takes the bubble of Mr. Sokolsky out of Paris and into another dimension into nature. In keeping with the garden follies of the XVIII century, it can be a retreat into fantasy.
Adrian and Azzedine: a friendship that does not need many words. Here in the empty white bubble room, at 6pm, just before the exhibition opened its doors.
Curated by fashion writer Olivier Saillard, Director of the Galliera Museum, this is one of the exhibitions the museum has mounted outside of its own space at La Cité de la Mode et du Design in Paris while it waits for the final renovations to be finished next year. Rei Kawakubo’s white drama collection for Spring Summer 2012 with 33 pieces is shown here. Contained in transparent iridescent bubbles, all white on white as though suspended in the air in dreams.
The white Comme des Garçons collection for summer 2012 was showing these crochet super delicate tops; museum pieces.
With great regret not for sale.
I guess I am still in the white mood from last week and thinking of the Salon del Mobile arriving in Milano and all of the wonderful pieces presented.
This white crochet chair was designed in 2006 by Marcel Wanders. He produced only 20 and of course it sold out.
As delicate as crochet can be, both hiding and revealing, and usually a technique for clothing, here transformed.
On Wednesday the great surprise in Paris was the opening of the new exhibition of Cristobal Balenciaga and Comme des Garçons at La Cité de la Mode et du Design in Paris, or the Docks as it is called there, itself an exciting new use of the old warehouses on the Left Bank. Balenciaga’s personal collection of antique clothes and fabrics from the XVIII, XIX and XX centuries were presented by curator Olivier Saillard who placed these treasures in large museum drawers next to Balenciaga’s own creations showing his ideas and inspirations; another amazing installation.