March 11, 2012
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
Sunday at my desk has been just that - only this one day, today – to sit and to reflect on the week just past and the Paris fashion shows and where they take us. All the creativity of different cultures and echoes of different times both on the runways and influences felt from off the runways met in Paris to show the fashion markets of the world where the vision will next go. The world of fashion and design is clearly influenced by cultural and social attitudes. It varies over time and place…
This week I spent a good deal of time with Azzedine Alaia at his atelier during Paris fashion week. It is always great excitement and creative chaos leading to the beautiful sculptural clothes he achieves.
Of course, like all the greats, he is never happy and it is never good enough for him. Most other eyes however disagree.
Fashion and sculpture: Madame Grés always claimed she wished to be a sculptor. Here, a dress from her Paris atelier of the 50’s that has influenced in the years so many designers, including this Paris season.
Sculpting shapes in design: this satin white glass lamp designed by Italian artist
Bobo Piccoli for Fontana Arte in 1968, is rare beauty and is called “RE” (King).
Bobo Piccoli was one of the steady figures at the Bar Giamaica in Milano, where all the artists and intellectuals used to meet and talk to change the world.
In the picture photographer Alfa Castaldi and friends at Giamaica
in a picture by Ugo Mulas.
Design and fashion mix again here in the McQueen show, where the amazing ceiling of hundreds of light bulbs illuminated the wonderful fashion of
lightness in these dresses of feathers and fluff.
The lights of New York: at the Jeu de Paume in Paris the exquisite exhibition of Berenice Abbott. Best known for her photographs of New York City
in the 30’s, in Paris are her artist’s roots. She came to Paris to study sculpture in 1921 and later became the assistant to Man Ray.
It was in Paris she first took up her camera and opened a portrait studio taking pictures of the bohemians like Jean Cocteau and many others before returning
to New York to become famous.
Last year we were in Holland for the retrospective of Alaia’s work and I saw this piece of sculpture by WeiWei from 1957 in the center of Groninger Museum.
This was made long before his house arrest and is still a very provoking statement. This year, at the Jeu de Paume, until April 29th there is the first comprehensive
exhibition of Ai WeiWei, called “Entrelacs”, including photographs and videos .
Wandering and looking for great design elements in Paris I “met” this beautiful abstract sculpture by Japanese artist Tomiya Matsuda.
Hand molded of clay with an off matt glaze, it was made in 1967 as Japan was stretching through its culture to meet other cultures around the world.