February 12, 2012
SUNDAY FROM MY DESK
In the midst of my work I realized that this week has been one of nostalgia.
Reflecting on the past can bring on a bit of melancholy but it also fires
the re-emergence of aesthetics and this week surely we have seen that.
Introducing here Maison Courreges, the beautiful Whitman poem that Oliviero Toscani read to honor Elio Fiorucci and of course the sad news today
of the legend Whitney Houston.
So many years I have been following his work and his multi-talented skills, but always happy to be surprised by his different inspirations.
Multi-talented artist, a painter and a sculptor, that has worked with
Comme des Garçons to great delight many many seasons, in magazines and for many famous designers. Julien d’Ys is hosted on the Metropolitan Museum site
for his work on The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion he worked on in 2009.
Having also worked with the Met on Anglomania and Super Hero shows there,
d’Ys amazingly fanciful wigs always draw gasps of wonder.
Kris Ruhs will have another in his series of installation sculptures outside
of the 10 Corso Como Milano building installed next week.
Here in the studio today the seven Totems in process are already
taking wonderful shapes.
Courrèges himself said: “we work for today to create tomorrow’s style”.
He thought the world was aging in 1965 and he sketched a look so radical
that he started a revolution. Spare dresses worn 4 inches above
the knees with flat white boots.
10 Corso Como hosts now a celebration for Courrèges 50th anniversary.
Manager of the Sex Pistols and former partner of Vivienne Westwood,
his ideas influenced NY, L.A., Tokyo and Paris.
In 1988 he wrote Deep in Vogue about culture and fashion crossover,
creating the Vogueing dance and song.
“But here I am Vogueing pretty
In some club deep in this city
Deep in Vogue, Deep in Vogue
Imagine runway modelling, in freeze frame
At the ball that’s what they call Vogueing“
Elio’s list of best friends now seems important but then
it was as outsiders making waves and having fun.
Here some best friends: Andy Warhol who at the opening of Fiorucci New York
wrote “I like everything here…it is all plastic”,
Keith Haring who came to Milano to decorate the Fiorucci shop,
Basquiat of whom Fiorucci funded the movie New York Beat
(to become Downtown 81),
Ettore Sottsass, Oliviero Toscani and Malcom McLaren among others.
Oliviero Toscani honored Elio by reading the poem Beginners, by Walt Whitman,
the visionary American poet.
Maripol worked and traveled as art director for Fiorucci.
Polaroid is a great invention that she, like Warhol used as “voyeurs” of their times.
They took thousands of portraits of all this world of fashion, music, film and art.
Maripol became the stylist for friend Madonna on the Like a Virgin video
that rocked the music scene.
On Friday evening Elio Fiorucci was honored by the Circolo Filologico of Milano.
For 130 years they have honored those who have brought new ideas
into the culture from language, science and the arts.
In 1967 when Elio opened his Fiorucci store in Galleria Passerella something
changed in the conservative fashion scene here in Milano. At this time in London
Biba was the fresh fashion reference and in Milano there was Gulp –
but nothing existed in Milano or anywhere else like the store that Elio Fiorucci built.
The San Babila store had three floors of novelties
and things you couldn’t find anywhere else.
More importantly, everything was an original. The prize he received on Friday
evening was more than deserved. Grazie Elio for your vision.