I was visiting Kris’ Paris studio today.   Again I am always amazed at the work he does – so many beautiful drawings, and among the papers and books around, I discovered an old issue of Details magazine. Details became a legendary magazine when it was started in the early 80’s.  It was created to show to New Yorkers all of the details that made living in New York so amazing.   The small details that everyone watched very closely while working, on the street, out to eat, or in their home.  Not only the clothes, but hairstyles and shoes, and bicycles, rings, and art, music and design that gave
New York – and New Yorkers –  the sparkle we all admired.

It is quite strange that this issue – October 1985 – has compressed so many of my family, friends, heroes, and intimates, in one issue.  Later I would meet my life’s companion Kris Ruhs; my friend for life Azzedine Alaia is here, and the hero of all my fashion years since I started in 1968 – Bill Cunningham.  The delight of anyone conscious of style, Diane Vreeland, an example of beauty inside and outside, and old friend Tina Chow. Annie Flanders and Ronnie Cooke edited the best magazine ever, because first of all it was real; made with rare intelligence and with heart. So rare and unique. I am so glad I have all the first issues before it was sold. All young editors should learn from these issues. On the cover, photographer Philippe Angers.

in 1985, with shows hanging at the Tower Gallery in New York and Southampton, the young artist Kris Ruhs put on a tie for a photo shoot with friends.
Never since I think, has he worn a tie.

Here, a portrait of Diane Vreeland by Michael Wollbracht from his book of eighty four portraits, published in 1985; his twenty-year diary. About Vreeland he wrote, “Dianasaurus is the last true vestige of twentieth century precomputer style…
no other dinosaur can compare with her novel sense of myth”.
We will be launching at 10 Corso Como the fragrances in her name early September.

Tina’s international style, both in her manner and dress, was always impeccable.
Here in an impression by Way Bandy, a page with her writing about her life.
“I don’t go out a lot because of the restaurant.
It’s like being at home and going out at the same time, our restaurants and home are in London, New York and Los Angeles….I am lucky to have three restaurants”.
I can feel a little bit like this now too, lucky to have the restaurants in Milano, Seoul and Shanghai…always out – always home.

A portrait of Azzedine in his kitchen, by journalist Caroline Olofgõrs.  “I am invited to Sunday afternoon tea with Azzedine and his “family”: Christoph,
Azzedine’s assistants Eric and Sylvie, his model Zuleika and of course, Patapouf, the dog whom Azzedine considers his baby and calls “mon fils”.
This portrait could have been made today!

Reading Cunningham’s commentary on the Alaia show at the Palladium so many years later, and his criticIsm of the show, is interesting.  How always sharp and attentive Cunningham has been.  He talks about the show being “a vivid example of the dangers in turning serious fashion into a vehicle of theatrical entertainment” and explains that fashion as entertainment started in Paris with Paul Poiret.  The big question he asks, “should fashion be presented as a form of entertainment?”.
Still an Open subject today.

Posted on: Sunday, July 27th, 2014

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